Nyhavna (the new harbour) in Trondheim has for a long time been ready for urban renewal. The industry is retreating, and the municipality wants to make Nyhavna a brand new district. Here, a mixture of offices, apartments, culture and artistic arenas is planned. One of the most positive things that has happened so far in this transformation is ‘Havet’ (The Sea). Just a short cycle ride from the center you have a varied offer for sauna bathing and swimming in the Trondheimsfjord.
The location is such that you have a varied view:
Alternatively, you can of course be the view yourself:
At Havet, you can book single hours or whole saunas for 2 hours. Try it! This is splendid! The furnishings (benches) are spread out in different levels and odd angles, you don’t have to sit in a row if you don’t want to.
Cold baths are carried out in the openings between the saunas.
Some of us where missing some steps up to the roof, to be able to jump from there, as we have seen on other floating saunas.
A couple of hundred meters away, the municipality has built a diving tower in collaboration with Havet. There you can jump and swim for free. But it is just a little too far from the saunas to function as a common facility.
During ‘Kulturnatt Trondheim’ (Cultural Evening Trondheim) in 2017, there was a competition ‘What is your dream for Nyhavna?’ Our bathing friend Taru won, with the answer: Sauna. But she won by a lottery draw, the idea in itself was considered undoable both by the municipality and the consult bureau arranging the contest. But now they are here, a lot of saunas!
Thank you so much, Taru, for an absolutely brilliant idea! For once, it happened in Trondheim that all this came into place quite suddenly, without a long-term localization debate and a lot of back and forth.
Our sauna had a ceiling partly made of glass. Imagine sitting here and enjoying the stars in the sky and maybe the aurora borealis in winter time?
In not too long time, the sauna concert concept at Havet will probably start up again, and then you can experience a sauna and a concert – at the same time! However, we had do to the concert part another place and ended the evening at Ladekaia, watching Vømmøl.
From the beautiful wooden town of Levanger there goes a ferry to Hokstad on Ytterøya. Bring your bike and discover this pearl in the inner Trondheimsfjord!
Just east of the ferry quay at Hokstad, there are remains of Ytterøy Kopperverk. Mining on Ytterøya started as early as 1630, as one of Norway’s earliest mines. 5-600 people worked in the mine around 1870. The copper works were sold to an English company and renamed “Ytterøy Mining Company”. The English owners settled on the island, and the mine had the largest production in the country. The peak year was 1867, when 35,000 tonnes of ore were shipped out (95 tonnes per day). This corresponded to 25% of the world’s needs. The ore reserves were largely exhausted by 1880, and activity declined accordingly. Operations were closed down in the interwar period. It can be dangerous to explore the mining area, please do follow the paths! In the spring of 1870, there was a large mudslide by the mines. 7 people died, including 3 children.
In the 1840s/50s, the Ytterøen mines were set up to extract pyrite. This was to be used for the production of sulfuric acid at the Leren Kromfabrikk in Trondheim, but that project failed.
We lived in Skolbakken (the School Hill) east of the mines when we were on Ytterøya this summer. It’s nice here! Our hosts, Yvonne and Jens, needed help salvaging their submarine, but we spent so much time sightseeing, swimming and time together, that no help came out of it.
The road through the forest became a fascinating affair. Here is a viking ship of a very special type:
The bathing took place in Kabelvika, where the power cable to Ytterøya was landed earlier. Here there are a lot of pebbles! Our recommendation is to use wet socks or preferably swimming shoes in such cases, but of course we didn’t remember to bring them. For our evening bath, there were 4 of us, each with their own solution to the problem:
Idun wore her sandals all the way down to the water front.
Knut stepped over the pebble field without caring much about it.
Jens didn’t bathe.
Yvonne committed to the the Finnish national sport of wife-carrying.
Apart from the pebble problem it was a really nice bath at dusk. From Ytterøya’s south side, you can see a lot of lights from Levanger and Fiborgtangen. Wife carrying baths on Ytterøya is just right!
After a bath, time is perfect for going on a visit. It was Hauke’s birthday, so we went home to Randi and Hauke. He wanted a visit of the Norwegian King and Queen for his birthday, but since he had forgotten to send the invitation, Hauke had to be satisfied by a couple of neighbours, as well as a couple of Trondhjemmers with accordions. Good enough, right? On a birthday visit, time is perfect for a taste of ‘Grønn Glede’ (Green Happiness). It was very, very green, but you survived, Knut? Extremely healthy this is!
‘The very first steamship to enter the Trondheimsfjord was the English Georg Canning, in 1837. During a stay in Trondhjem, the ship was rented out for a pleasure trip to Steinkjer. Everywhere, the steamship caused great excitement and sometimes horror. In Mosvik, the men resolutely refused to row out to the ‘Smoke boat’ (“Røykbåten”), which could go against both wind and current.‘ (From the information board at Jørstad)
15 years later, a fixed route network was established at Innherred, served by steamships. On Ytterøya, Jørstad was listed as a port of call from 1850.
‘D/S “Nidelven” was built in Trondhjem and was the first passenger steamship to be made in Norway. The hull was built at Trondhjem’s shipyard, it was made of pine, copper bolts and skin. The boiler and machine were built and installed by the Factory at Nidelven (now Trondhjern’s Mech. Verksted).’ Today the factory contains apartments, where we lived ourselves in the 1990’s. Coal consumption was 3 barrels per hour. The first trip was made on Trondhjemsfjorden on 24th of November 1850, including singing, music and great festivities.
In the first years there was no quay at Jørstad, people and goods were rowed out to the steamship. Indherred’s Aktie-Dampskibsselskab built the quay and the ‘Litjpakkuset’ (the Little Warehouse) at Jørstadsjøen in 1930. Now the goods could be hoisted directly on board. For easy lifting of horses and cattle, the steamship had its own cattle box. A cattle box copy can be found on the quay, and Idun just had to try it.
D/S Nidelven’s route at Innherred was a big disappointment, as the traffic in no way covered the expenses. Travel by steamship was considered luxury. People from Innherred traveled to Trondheim mostly by small boats. This took time, but then they could also spend the nights in the boat while they were in town, and a city trip usually took a week or two. The ‘Nidelven’ was later put into different coastal routes, but that was not a success either. She was too large for fjord shipping and too small for coastal shipping, and was scrapped on 18 October 1895 after many years out of circulation.
We took a commemorative bath for the steamship traffic from the beautifully restored quay. It was ‘Stiftelsen Ytterøy Bygdetun’ who started work on the quay in 2005.
Then it was just a matter of jumping in!
The last boat that went between Trondheim and Steinkjer was the motor ship “Steinkjer”. The boat was purchased by Indherreds Aktie-Dampsibsselskab in 1968, and put into service in December the same year. On 12 September 1974, “Steinkjer” made its last passenger and freight trip between Trondheim and Steinkjer. After 118 years, there was definitely put an end to the continuous passenger traffic by boats to and from Steinkjer. However, the story does not quite end here. If you’re lucky, say in early August, a steamship may still appear.
Sources: WikiStrinda, ‘Gamle Dampen’ by Olaf T. Engvig and Jørstad info board.
Far, far away, in the inner part of the 126 km long Trondheimsfjord lies a pearl: Ytterøya (the Outer Island). You might find this slightly unlogical, but the name is logical enough, since Ytterøya lies outside Inderøy (the Inner Island) (which is actually not an island but a peninsula). The ferry to Ytterøya leaves from Levanger in the southeast, which is twice as far away from the island as Mosvik in the northwest, but somehow that is probably logical too. The island is small enough for you to leave the car at the mainland and take the bicycle instead. Once up from the ferry quay, turn left and cycle around the largest (western) section first. It is beautiful at Ytterøya!
The island is 13.5 km long and 4.3 km wide at its widest, with a varied and sometimes rather hilly landscape. The soil is rich on nutrients, and together with marine deposits, this provides a rich flora. Ytterøya has been inhabited for more than 5,000 years. In earlier times, the island was divided in two (near the church), but land rising has made them connected. Both petroglyphs and burial mounds have been found on Ytterøya.
There are about 50 farms on the island, which has around 500 inhabitants. It is good to live here – also for the animals!
However, the groundwater has been sinking steadily in recent years, and the large chicken slaughterhouse has been decided moved, which gives some concerns about the future. Melkerampa (the Milk Ramp) in Midtbygda (the Village in the Middle) has grown a bit out of the old ways, so there you will find both a shop and a bar and quite a bit in between those two.
There are many beautiful bays to visit for a bath at Ytterøya, but the sandy beaches are somewhat absent. Therefore, you’d better bring your swimming shoes if you don’t like walking on pebbles.
We went to the lighthouse to swim, it’s a beautiful place on the south side of the island, but perhaps a bit private.
On October 13th 1899, the port of Titran was full of fishing boats. Lots of herring had arrived, and fishermen from all of Mid-Norway hoped to make good money. This was at a turning point between the old and the new times. There were many traditional fishing boats built for sails and oars, but also some larger ships with steam engines.
Many were those who had a bad feeling before they left for sea. Friday the 13th made them feel insecure, in addition to a falling barometer pressure. But the desire for profit, how to handle that? Nobody wanted to stay ashore and watch the other fishermen go to sea and collect boatloads of the ‘silver of the sea’. By six o’clock in the afternoon, most of the fishing teams had placed the nets in the sea. Years later quite a lot of the survivors said that they had seen a warning, a ‘Merman’ who got up from the sea and looked towards them, but they did not take notice of it.
At about two o’clock after midnight, the fishing fleet was attacked by a storm. A survivor, from one of the steamships, later told that he was thrown out of bed, because the wind came so suddenly. The sky cracked with icy rain, hail and gusts of wind that tore sails and rudder to pieces. The smaller boats tried to find their way back to Titran, but it was impossible. The night was dark, no visibility in such rain and wind. 31 boats went down, and 140 fishermen lost their lives. Of those who survived, many were aboard the larger ships that stayed at ocean all night in the storm, instead of trying to find a harbor. During the whole night they were waiting for the wind to reduce and the sun to rise. This is how they avoided the dangerous waters off Frøya in the gloom and darkness of the night.
After the accident, a nationwide fundraising campaign was launched for the bereaved. There were many widows who were left alone, crying with their flock of children. The collection was very successful, it raised over a million NOK. Idun’s grandfather, Emil Herje, interviewed survivors and widows, and has written about the Titran Accident. These are strong stories. In many families, all the adult men disappeared that very night. Fathers, sons and brothers often fished from the same boat. According to tradition, many men took care of the money in the family and kept it with them at all times. Therefore all the family savings disappeared into the sea together with the man.
When the accident occurred, Sletringen lighthouse outside Titran was brand new. This led to a lot of criticism. The lighthouse, with its 20 m was too low, and the light did not go far enough. It was decided to build a new and taller lighthouse, and the result was a new cast iron lighthouse which, with it’s 46 meters is Norway’s tallest lighthouse. The name comes from the island where it is placed, which is ‘slett’ (plain). The old timber house was moved to Sandstad by Hitra island, where it still makes use as a lighthouse (Terningen).
Between Titran and Sletringen there is an infinity of islets and reefs. Could it be a good idea to swim to Sletringen? After some study of maps, we came to the conclusion that we had to do a variation of the sport known as ‘Swim-Run’, if the Tobatheornottobathe-people were to reach Sletringen without motorized help. The speed of some of the participants is not very impressive, so it is tempting to translate Swim-Run to ‘Walk-Swim’ in this case. For the occasion, we dragged with us a not insignificant amount of luggage, including an inflatable boat. We did not stress the time schedule, the most important thing was to come home without any accidents.
From Høynesvegen we went northwest as far as we could, and then started swimming. We wore wet suits, gloves, wet socks and fins. We crossed three narrow ‘channels’ on the way outwards. At first we changed from regular shoes to wet socks/fins and back again, but after a few times we got tired of it. Knut managed well, he had also a pair of wet shoes in his luggage, but Idun’s wet socks did not survive the trip. In advance, we had thought a bit about this thing with high or low tide, but on closer thought, it was not very important. Actually, we could spend a whole day on the trip if necessary. And the tour turned out quite exciting (but not dangerous!). Especially when crossing a small channel, where the current was so strong that it felt like crossing a flooded river instead of the ocean.
After passing three channels and as many islands, we were ready for ‘The big crossing’ over to the lighthouse. It is about 250 meters open water to Sletringen. The weather was fantastic, no wind or waves. But still – the swells really broke against the shears on each side of the lighthouse. Idun was very thoughtful. “I reserve the right to turn back as soon as I notice there is too much current!” Idun said. And then we set off. There was no current! Not scary at all, this absolutely beautiful day. Once there, it was a bit awkward to get up on the rock. The swells pull you down as soon as you think you are ashore. You have to grab the rocks while the sea recedes, waiting for the next wave to push you ashore. It went well!
However, Idun had to admit that the new, beautiful bathing cap she had received as a Christmas present was too cold for this type of expedition, so on the way back she switched to a warmer hood. But what a marvelous place Sletringen island is! A fantastic landscape! A beautiful lighthouse! Though, it must have been harsch to live out here in the stormy winters. Sletringen is not a big island. In bad weather, the waves cross it all. The lighthouse was vacated in 1999. Frøya municipality has started a project to make the lighthouse accessible to the public. We really hope this will actually happen. Imagine spending the night at Sletringen lighthouse!
The return was just as nice as the way out. This time the sea was ‘flooding’, and we felt that we were pulled inwards. We swam past the first island – but with the tide the islands had become more numerous, so we ended up with 4 crossings back as well. All in all, a brilliant day. It’s great to swim and walk to Sletringen lighthouse! But we want to point out that good wetsuits, exceptionally calm weather and sufficient experience / adaptation to cold water is needed if this kind of expedition shall be successful. You are hereby warned!
Sources: ‘Titranulykka’, Edited by Hans A Grønskag ISBN: 82-993698-1-9 ‘Stormhav’, Leo Oterhals, ISBN: 82-90757-1-23
When reading about how countries/cities/towns should make things easy for movie makers, there is much talk about all the tourists who would come to the places where a movie is shot. In that way, the location should earn money, even if the movie is sponsored for selecting that particular location. If this really happens, is debatable. Especially when e.g. the Norwegian “Prekestolen” (close to Stavanger) in “Mission Impossible” is presented as being in India!
Few might have thought that the movie “Everyone hates Johan”, shot in Titran on the island Frøya, would bring any tourists. But we can confirm it now has happened! Knut was an extra in the movie and was one day on Frøya recording a while ago. When the movie finally came to the movie theaters, he didn’t see himself until his name was in the credits. That’s what can happen when you are an extra!
No matter, we liked the movie very much and suspect it is closer to the truth of how it is to live on Titran than the natives would care to admit. So we just had to take a bath in Johan’s foot steps.
What we had planned, was a bath in the sound right below Johan’s house, where his parents lost their lives. This is right west of Titran and is called Svalbalen beach (originally Svalbar, from “Sval”, meaning chilly). What we hadn’t considered, was the tide. We arrived Titran friday evening and went straight to the beach, but quickly realized that at low tide it looks quite different than in the movie. So we went back the next day on high tide instead and then it looked just right.
The houses of Johan and his childhood sweetheart Solvor, whom he happened to blow up a little, are close to the beach, just as the movie depicts it.
At the beach there is now a house for bird watching. Very nice and very new, but maybe a little too far from the beach for misusing it to change before bathing.
Without knowing for sure, we suspect that this house has a direct correlation to the movie, since it was brand new. Maybe financed by money someone got for renting out their house for filming? Actually it was so new that we were the first to sign in the guest book! Which was a first for us.
One thing we hadn’t thought about, is that there are other central elements in the movie to see around! E.g. these bars where Johan showed his strength.
Also Sletringen lighthouse was in the movie, but that’s another story. Our conclusion is that a bath in “Johan’s bay” is just right.
On the western tip of the Island Frøya you will find the fishing village Titran. The name has an unknown meaning, but it is an old fishing village, mentioned by the Nidaros’ Archbishop Aslak Bolt in 1433, when he gathered “The Titrom fishermen” for a meeting. They agreed to pay all the fees that the Christian court ordered. That means, at Titran, there were both people and money at the time, and the fishermen were even willing to give some extra fish out of pure goodwill. Before 1430, all the Norwegian fishing villages were free to settle.
The grand old days were in the 16th century: Of Frøya’s 49 households, 15 were on Titran and 15 on Sula. During the fisheries, there could be hundreds of fishermen out here in the ocean gap, with a safe port and a short way out to sea. Today, the number of inhabitants is less than 100 people.
On the south side of Titran we find the peninsula Stabben, where the Germans built a coastal fortress, Stabben, during the WWII. The work started in 1941 and was part of the Atlantic embankment. Serbian and Russian prisoners of war dug out more than 20 bunkers and hundreds of meters of underground passages.
The fortress was opened to the public in 1990, so Stabben fortress you just have to come and visit!
The fortress was equipped with 3 Krupp canons (150 mm K 16), with a range of 22 km. The purpose was to hit allied ships. The construction of Stabben fortress turned out to be a mistake. Very few ships passed by Frøya. The shipping lane goes inside the neighbouring island Hitra, sheltered from wind and waves!
During the WWII, shots were fired from the Stabben canons only once – at their own: German minesweepers who had misunderstood the signals from the fortress.
The Germans left Stabben in 1944, and the families could move back to their houses. The Germans had occupied all the houses on the Stabben peninsula for 3 years.
At Titran you will find beautiful bathing places everywhere, it hardly makes sense to recommend one in front of the others. We were accommodated in the Titran old school – it has been converted into apartments – so then it was natural to cross over to Stabben from there. An absolutely beautiful bath in a quiet, marvelous evening.
Frøya – this incredibly beautiful collection of islets and reefs, bays and fjords, has the same name as the fertility goddess in the Norse mythology: Frøya. You just have to wonder: Why it is so desolate out here? Did she not listen? Was she not flattered enough to make the islands fertile? Then it turns out that the name comes from the Norse word frøy = lord, the foremost, that is, the foremost island.
And when it comes to fertility – Frøya’s fertility lies in the sea! Here you will find the clearest water and a business that has been founded on fish since the Stone Age.
Frøya municipality has a land area of 230 km2 and consists of thousands of larger and smaller islands, islets and reefs. The highly committed inhabitants (something above 5,000 of them) go hard if they feel unfairly treated – just try to build wind turbines here!
Frøya is a birds’ paradise. Here you just have to put on your shoes – there is goose shit everywhere. And you have to expect strong protests wherever you go – the geese alert you whenever you do disturb them.
The business here today is still about fish – and in particular farmed fish. On Frøya there is a high number of ‘Salmon Lords’. The population has in the 2000’s increased more than the average in the Trøndelag region. The smaller villages, though, show a declining population, and the number of inhabitants on the small islands is declining.
In our search for bathing places on Frøya, it (unfortunately!) did not help to search the municipality’s website. Big sigh: Please, all you municipalities out there – set up a list of the best bathing places you have! It can be a bit tedious for us – on Frøya, for example – to have a bath in all the bays and fjords and lakes to find the best bathing spot. But suddenly while driving, we found this gem, not far from Nordskag, at Utfrøya:
At Valen (by the lake Aunvatnet), there is a very nice bathing place, with benches and tables, floating jetty and a diving tower. Fabulous! A little worn out, though.
Where is the community spirit of voluntary work? Not much is needed to bring this fine bathing place back to its former glory. First of all, maybe clean up the surroundings a bit, so it looks more like a bathing place and less like a rubbish place.… Or does someone think there is something called a bathing season and that it has not started yet?
After the young ones have left the nest, we haven’t watched the traditional children’s parade on the Norwegian national day of May 17th, but taken a hike instead. A couple of years we went on top of Storheia, Trondheims highest mountain. This is a nice little trip, with only a short walk down to town afterwards (easily combined with a bath at Sjøbadet). But after the city was joined with the neighbouring Klæbu in 2020, Trondheims highest top is now Kråkfjellet and much less accessible.
So we took a shorter option, went by bike to Bekken gård and walked up to Estenstadhytta. The cabin wasn’t open for serving, but we knew that and had everything we needed with us!
Of course we also wanted a bath and on the way down we went by Estenstaddammen. Trondheim was blessed with phantastic weather, so we don’t believe anyone was shocked that we cooled ourselves down a little.
In Norway there has been much debate lately about our national costumes not being suited for people not comfortable with standard stereotypes like male/female. So we tested a switch.
No doubt that a bath is the right thing to do on May 17th!
Røros, with almost 4000 inhabitants, was basically uninhabited highland until the copper mine was founded in 1644. The town is therefore called Bergstaden (The Mountain City), or just Sta’a (City) in the local dialect.
In the 17th century, the Danish king Christian IV was broke, and he sold away his crown estates. The largest sale went to Joachim Irgens and consisted of all crown estates in Helgeland, Salten, Lofoten, Vesterålen, Andenes, Senja, Troms and most of the Norwegian mining business. The value was equivalent to a barrel of gold (100,000 riksdaler). In 1646, Joachim Irgens traveled to Trondheim, and there he was referred to as a ‘man who found great taste in mines‘.
In the hope of solving the money problem once and for all – with fixed income – King Christian IV sent out a scriptum in 1644. The letter promised rewards to those who could find any metal ore, but also harsh punishments to those who did not report their findings. From 1630, there was a mining business at Kvikne. People from Kvikne later started up in Røros, under the direction of the farmer and reindeer hunter Hans Olsen Aasen. In the beginning, when the mine was run in ‘Rauhåmmåren’ mountain, it did not pay off. But the income increased a lot with the discovery of what is today called Gamle Storwartz / Auf die Fortuna mine. The copper mines at Røros were considered among the richest in Europe at the time.
King Christian IV wrote a letter of privilege in 1646, which gave Røros copper mines (i.e. Joachim Irgens) exclusive rights to minerals, forests and waterfalls within a circle in a radius of 45.2 km from the center Old Storwartz. Inside the circle, all farmers could be ordered to sell their products and perform transport tasks for the copper plant. But this also meant revenue for the locals.
The first smeltery was built in 1646 by Hitterelva river, less than a mile from ‘Gamle Storwartz’, and the city (Bergstaden) startet to grow there. Irgens wanted to name Røros after himself and renamed the city ‘Irgenstal’, but it did not work out. Sta’a was named Røraas, which at the end of the 19th century was changed to Røros (possibly meaning the outlet of the river Røra). The city is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage. Røros is southern Norway’s champion in coldness, with a low temperature record of -50.4°C from 1914. There is quite a need of firewood in the winter!
Røros church from 1780 is also called Bergstadens Ziir (beauty). With 1800 seats, it is one of Norway’s largest churches. The size implies that it should provide service to one of the richest copper mines in Europe.
When searching for bathing facilities in the Røros municipality, we learned that Gjettjønna (the Goat lake) could be a relevant place. Very close to the city center, too – this was promising!
In the implementation phase, doubts began to arise. Was this the right pond? Including all this industry at the south end?
But swim – of course!
… which made us even more in doubt. Did they actually float timber in this pond? … And was this actually timber? It seemed to be from a log house. In a pond?
Subsequent investigations suggest that we might have made several of the following errors:
Relying on Google Maps (which consistently refers to Hitterelva as Glomma (the longest river in Norway, which Hitterelva runs into))
We noticed currents in the lake, which indicates that it was a river (Håelva) and not a lake
There is a lake called Gjettjønna further away, by Glåmos. Maybe that’s where the great bathing spot is?
Check at which end of the lake the bathing area actually is
The latter applies to Gjettjønna on the other side of the road of the river Håelva. It seems to be shallow and not very idyllic in the northernmost end, but there might be a paradise on the other end, who knows? We did not investigate the southern end..
It’s not really necessary or right to have a bath in Håelva. But after the bath a, dinner in Kjerkgata followed by a rock concert in ‘Storstuggu’ (= the great hall). We got to experience ‘Spidergawd’ – Oh, what happiness!