With its 600 inhabitants, Leka is one of Norway’s smallest municipalities, but that does not prevent an immense commitment to theater. Herlaugsgildet theater group was established in 1977, and they have set up the play ‘Herlaugsspelet’ for many years. But in 2024 it was ‘The saga about the Helgeland mountains’ that was the theme. We wanted to see that!
The path to Lekamøya (The Leka Virgin Mountain) starts from Solsem.
Tobatheornottobathe’s short version of the saga goes like this: King Sulis in Sulitjelma and King Vågakallen in Lofoten argued about who had the biggest kingdom. But there was one thing they agreed on, namely that the youths were difficult to manage. Vågakallen had given up his unruly son, Hestmannen (The Horse Man), and King Sulis had sent his 7 daughters to Landegode close to Bodø, so that they would be brought up by the wise and beautiful Lekamøya.
Lekamøya mountain looks like a woman with stretched arms and a shawl. Photo: Ole Hamnes, license: CC BY NC SA 4.0.
It didn’t work out very well, because the seven sisters just wanted to play and bathe, preferably with the Horseman. But his eyes had fallen on Lekamøya, and there was a lot of back and forth before he shot his arrow after her. The arrow went through Trollhatten which still has a hole through it, and at the same time the sun rised and everyone turned to stone. The color on the west side of Leka island is explained by the fact that Lekamøya dropped the bucket of mysost (whey cheese) in the same moment, and the stones were colored red.
On the way to theater in Frøvik. The mysost bucket on this milk ramp won’t blow away anytime soon.
The play ‘Lekamøya and Hestmannen‘ was quite well set up, with several references to Herlaugspelet. The outdoor stage is absolutely beautiful, located on a headland with water visible on both sides. The play had many scenes mentioning bathing, certainly a show to Tobatheornottobathe’s taste!
The seven sisters, here are 5 of them, appreciated bathing and all sorts of fun, especially if the Horseman was around.
This theater day in 2024, the weather was brilliant, almost too much for Tobatheornottobathe. Sunny and 27 degrees celcius… It all went as it had to go – there was a swim in the break!
At Leka, a bath is perfect when the theater has a break.
Just after the ice age, the sea level at the Trøndelag coast was up to 100 meters higher than today. At Leka you can find a cave 78 m above sea level, Solsemgrotta, formed by a fault that was excavated by the sea, while this was the beach zone.
Lekmøyhammaren and the hard choice: Turn left towards Solsemgrotta, or right towards Lekamøya?
In 1912, the cave was explored for the first time by 3 young men from Solsem. The cave is approximately 40 meters long, 5 meters wide and 8 meters high. Once inside, they discovered cave paintings in the dark part, the first cave art found in Norway until then. The boys behaved well after the discovery, by notifying the Science Museum in Trondheim. Later the cave was examined by archaeologists Theodor Petersen and Claus Hjelte. They made drawings of the cave and the cave paintings, and collected many objects for further investigation.
View northwestwards from the cave.
Remains of many different animals were found, a total of 1,868 bones. From catching and hunting, they found shells from clams and snails as well as bones from seals, cod, flounder, herring, black bream, gray grouse, puffins, vultures, sea eagles, goshawks and rock doves, but also livestock bones from cattle, sheep, goats and horses. The cave has clearly been used for a long time, from the Bronze Age (1800 BD) to the Viking Age (1000 AD).
View westwards from Solsemgrotta, towards today’s farmland.
The use of the cave has been much debated. We have many caves in Norway that have been used as shelters. Solsemgrotta, however, has a difficult access. The path up to the cave is today a rocky trip, but was of course shorter in older times, when the sea level was higher.
The entrance to Solsemgrotta is closed today, to preserve the art. Access only with a guide.
The problem is the slope from the cave entrance. There is a steep drop of 3 meters into the cave before it flattens out, today equipped by stairs and ropes. In older times you must have needed a ladder and/or ropes, which would have been very impractical with children. The conclusion is therefore that the cave must have been used for rituals. The remains of two people are explained by the fact that they were brought there after their death.
The cave entrance is steep, no place for children. The cave cannot have been a residence.
We were at Leka island to see the play ‘Lekamøya og Hestmannen‘, and in that connection guided tours to Solsemgrotta had been set up. It was a great tour, with a good guide. So far, only 10 caves with rock art have been found in Norway, all along the coast between Namdalen and Lofoten. In comparison, thousands of petroglyphs have been found in open air, all over the country.
The cave painting on the east wall. Copy of archaeologist Claus Hjelte’s drawing. It is not allowed to take pictures inside the cave.
The cave painting on the east wall in Solsemgrotta depicts 13 people, one of whom is holding a large solar cross. 9 of the figures are clearly marked as men. Of those who lack male attributes, there are two who have obviously important functions: One holds the solar cross and the other holds a torch. According to our guide, the non-male figures were first categorized as ‘castrated men’, not as women (!). This probably says more about women’s position in the early 20th century than women’s place in the Bronze Age society. Was there an interest in mass castration of men in the Bronze Age? Were the women invisible in the early agricultural society?Tobatheornottobathe is in no doubt, and concludes that the portrayal of women has never been uninteresting, not even in the Bronze Age.
Rullavikstranda at Solsem. Sem comes from Norse ‘Sæeimr’ = Home by the sea.
Unfortunately, Solsemgrotta has no pool, so bathing inside the cave is impossible. At Leka, however, there are bathing places everywhere, and of course we took our cave bath at Solsem. Down by the sea we found a beautiful bay, Rullavikstranda, with fine sand, but decided to jump from the not quite finished floating jetty. It’s wise to look around a bit before swimming, as we discovered a jellyfish where we first wanted to jump in. It is best to swim outside the range of the jellyfish, also at Leka.
You can jump right in if you want to, or wade out from the beach, if that’s your thing
In the far northwest of Trøndelag lies one of Norway’s smallest municipalities: Leka. It is well worth a visit!
From a distance, Leka looks quite ordinary: a few islands scattered across the sea with a modest mountain sticking up. On further investigation, however!
The story of Leka started 500 million years ago, when the American continental plate (Laurentia) and the European one (Baltica) drifted against each other. In the collision, the ocean floor plate Laurentia was pushed under Baltica, but a piece came loose and was turned on its side. This piece is today Leka! 60 million years ago the plates began to drift apart again. A rift arose between what later became the Atlantic Ocean and the Mid-Atlantic ridge. However, the rifting occurred west of Leka, and therefore we have an island in Trøndelag that actually belongs to the American continental plate. Let’s hope they don’t ask to get it back!
Very interesting geology at Leka!
The yellow-red mountains on the west side of Leka were a mystery for a long time, but in the 60’s researchers found the explanation. The island consists of all the layers from the old seabed crust, turned 90 degrees. Here the layers are so thin that by walking for a few hours you should be able to see all the layers from 7 km down into the mantle to the top of the former seabed. The beautiful colors come from serpentinite and olivine. Fascinating! And this natural ‘exhibition’ of all the rocks (a complete ophiolite complex) is the reason why Leka was chosen as ‘Norway’s Geological National Monument‘ in 2010.
The rocks on Leka do not provide much benefit to the vegetation, and the soil is poor. View north towards Vega Island.
The name Leka is uncertainly explained, but may come from ‘to leak’, i.e. from the streams on the island. The municipal coat of arms pictures an eagle’s claw and refers to a well known eagle catch, which took place in June 1932. Svanhild, aged 3 ½, disappeared while playing, and over a hundred persons were involved searching for her. In the evening, Jentoft Svendsen, Leif Andersen and Karl Haug climbed up to an eagle’s nest, as they had noticed that the eagle was behaving differently than usual. To get up, Jentoft had to stand on the shoulders of the others, and just below the nest he found Svanhild with her dress torn but otherwise in good condition. They were sure that the girl could not possibly have climbed there on her own. On the other hand, ornithologists have claimed that the eagle could not have lifted her, since she weighed 12 kg. And thus the discussions have continued for almost 100 years! Tobatheornottobathe thinks it looks very steep in the mountain, and finds it hard to believe that she could have climbed there by herself. But sure? No.
The eagle’s catch in Hagafjellet. It must be a fit 3-year-old who climbs half the rock face here (to the tip of the arrow)!
Leka municipality consists exclusively of islands, and there are bathing spots almost everywhere. We had hired a van to use as a tent, and stayed at the ‘bobil camp’. There you can book a place based on your desire for either proximity to water or a view. Not hard to guess what Tobatheornottobathe prefers?
Tobatheornottobathe will always choose to sleep by the water if possible. But how come this choice is different from a view? Seriously? Isn’t this what you might call a panorama?
Since parking 5 meters from the sea, there was bathing going on both morning and evening at Leka. A bit tricky to climb down the rocks, but clear water, and the bay was warm and nice to have a swim in. By Sunday morning, however, the weather was windy, and the water suddenly had turned brown. Not disgusting of course, so far out to sea, but not as beautiful as the day before. Things like that happen, but all the baths were nice, because at Leka for sure, a bath is always right!
