North east on Senja (Norway’s second largest island) there is a cape and close to it a hillside with a chip in it (chip – skår, hillside – li, cape – odde: Skorliodden). It is a good view to the seaway in to Tromsø, which means it is a good place for a fort. Skorliodden fort was put up by the Norwegian Defence Forces with pre-german materials. The fort is now gone, but the pier is still there.
The weather forecast predicted some wind this day, so instead of the planned kayak-tour we went for a walk to watch the waves.
No, this hunt was only for pictures and baths. No rules broken.
We parked at Vangshamn and went by foot out to the fort, a nice half hour walk. And plenty of time to look forward to a bath in the extremely clear water!
Clear as can be!
From Skorliodden you see over the fjord towards Kvaløya wind mill park. Doesn’t look too bad, considering there are still plenty of untouched mountains left in Troms and Finnmark.
Inga enjoys her freedom. Kvaløya in the background.
On Skorliodden they have made a bonfire house after plans from Furøy Velforening. It is rather windy out on the cape, so some shelter is rather welcome.
Skorliodden bonfire house. Soon also with panorama windows.Hot dogs in focus. Comfortable in the bonfire house on Skorliodden! Photo: Ulrike Naumann.
After food it was time for a bath, but strangely enough no one else than Idun and Knut wanted to have one. Most were happy just walking along the pier and looking at the waves. No closeup studies wanted.
Windy on the pier. Photo: Ulrike Naumann.
Quote from big brother: ‘’If you give me 50 kr, I’m happy to deny you to bathe today!’’. An offer we easily could refuse, who can withstand such a tempting bathing spot?
What will I see – over the giant waves? Photo: Ulrike Naumann.Skorliodden wave pool. Photo: Ulrike Naumann.
They waves weren’t as big as expected though. So then we could return to the bonfire house.
Chilly and nice at Skorliodden. Photo: Ulrike Naumann.
Iduns big brother Frode lives on the peninsula Furøy (pine island, although it was called Leirøy, clay island while it was still an island) between Finnsnes and Sørreisa centre in Troms. Every winter he arranges an activity holiday for the Løwø siblings. This time we wanted to join! BUT – Idun broke her shoulder last time she skied, so the main activity of skiing wasn’t so tempting. A bath, on the contrary, is always tempting!
Pittoresque view at Tømmervika.
Close to Sørreisa church is Tømmervika (the Timber bay), and from there it is a short walk to Storvika (the Big bay) – Furøya’s primary bathing spot.
Quite easy to find Storvika, even though the road wasn’t cleared of snow.
Crossing the road were tracks of rabbit, moose, deer and fox. Deer are living here only for the second year. They rely on old conifer trees and last year the planted conifers were finally old enough. About the fox: we _think_ it was fox, since there were no human tracks nearby. Maybe if we could have heard what the fox said…
Jack Rabbit was here.Nice with a sign to tell you to stop. Some never are able to do that.
The deer had had a gathering in Storvika, but it seems as the Humans are planning on reoccupying the area. A big bonfire was already in place. Tempting to bring out the matches…
Everything ready for a pentecost bonfire, or do we have to wait for midsummer?
In the background is a war ship participating in the exercise ‘Cold Response’. It had good speed as we arrived, but suddenly stopped. Was watching two crazy mid winter swimmers that interesting?
Who is studying who?
There was much seaweed on the way out, but wow (!) how clear the water is here up north. Big brother wondered if we did swim out to the small rock in the bay, some 250 m out. But we were there at high tide and didn’t notice any rock. Might have been just as well. Maybe next time!
Back at big brother’s house we could see who had made some of the tracks we saw! Not too shy, these ones…
The river Orkla is the basis for most of what is going on in Orkdalen (Orkla valley) and has given name to the town (from 2014) Orkanger and the new (from 2020), widened commune Orkland. The name possibly comes from the old norse ‘orka’ = work, which may describe the heavy streams in the upper river. There are no natural water magazines in Orkla, so floods are not uncommon. In the flood “Storofsen” in 1789, lives where lost. But it is a good salmon river, with the biggest catch ever being 25 kg.
The Orkla delta before routing to channels. Picture from info plate at ‘Furumoen’.
The river’s own work with creating a delta was not too much appreciated and the lower part of the river was channeled, so the delta could be used for industry instead.
Straight sight lines in the lower parts of Orkla.
The idea has worked well and there is now a significant amount of industry on Grønøra in Orkanger.
Orkla towards Orklafjorden.
The channeling of Orkla turned the old outlet to a backwater. What to do with that? Plans existed to fill this up for industry as well, but local enthusiasts stopped it from happening. The last 15 years, Orkanger Vel has put great effort into Gammelosen (the old river outlet), and it has given results. Covered with white shell sand, you have the nicest little city beach you can ask for. Pure paradise!
“Got to bathe, simply got to bathe!”Clearer sight under water than over!Oh, yes, at Gammelosen there is sand under the snow.
The nice thing about going to a sand beach at winter time, is that you don’t bring half the beach with you back home, because of the snow layer on top! Perfect!
…and for those who for peculiar reasons might not appreciate cold baths: Right by Gammelosen is also Orklandsbadet (since 2020), with everything you could possibly want of water slides, swimming pools and saunas. Enjoy!
In the building behind us we could have taken a warm bath, but why would we?
For the sporty ones, this where the triathlon race Trøndertri is arranged in august. With some luck the ice is gone before that…
From the island of Storfosna (previous post) you can cycle further out to the ocean, to Kråkvåg (Crow Bay).
Holmen Island and Kråkvåg in the background.
On the way, the small island of Holmen is passed, and here they have set up a small bath tub. Unfortunately not in use in February 2022.
Bath tub in changing weather. Kråkvåg in the background.
Kråkvåg is both an island and an archipelago consisting of four islands. The name comes from the crows, which seek refuge here at night. The population of humans is around 50. This is an incredibly beautiful place!
Rocks and beaches at Kråkvåg island. Storslåttøya (big harvest island) in the back.
At Kråkvåg there are dozens of small and large, beautiful white beaches. There are so many that you will always be able to find a sheltered beach. Which comes in rather handy, there is a lot of wind here!
Not very far from beach to beach at Kråkvåg.
While cycling back and forth, unable to choose the best beach for bathing, we found Skjærgårdsstranda (Archipelago beach), and it basically chose itself.
At Skjærgårdsstranda, it’s always the right time for a bath.
The crowd of people was reasonable when we visited Skjærgårdsstranda at the end of February. But in the summer – what a paradise: benches, barbecue, bathtub, bathing bay and sauna! Here we had our fresh winter bath, a little exciting too. There were so big waves this day that a real drag was created in the small bay. Lovely!
At the end of the road you will find Kråkvåg fort, built in the 1980s.
Where the cannon used to be at Kråkvåg.
After investing a billion kroner in building the fort, it was closed down before it came into use.
Kråkvåg with the Island Storfosna in the background.
Of course it wasn’t a waste of money. At least the ‘Kråkvåg people’ got a bridge!
Cyclist at sunset
This day we cycled almost forty kilometers. It was a hard exercise, because none of us had cycled much during the last 3 months. However, this was solved in the very best way: Accommodation and spa at Hovde farm in Brekstad.
After some time mostly spent indoors because of bad weather and corona, it was time for a new bathing adventure. The bicycle trip to Ørlandet was a success last time, so we wanted to follow up with the same starting point. What could go wrong? Well, a flat tire before we got to the boat quickly answered that question. Luckily, this time we hadn’t cut the time too sharp, so we still came in time for the boat.
The guy who reached the boat with a flat tire.
It is okay to bring bicycles on the boat, but be warned: Bicycle trailers are specifically not allowed! After arrival Knut got the bike fixed in a bike shop (the repair kit existed only on the packing list, not in the backpack). The repair man wasn’t in, but came after a few minutes anyway, when the problem was explained. Thank you!
From Brekstad there are 10 km to the ferry port of Garten. A nice and flat bicycle trip, but it is in it’s place to point out that Ørlandet is always windy! This time mostly from the side, so not too discouraging for bikers.
The map of Ørlandet shows it laying at the opening of the Trondheimfjord, with a form like the Italian boot, only opposite. The tip of the boot kicks the little island Garten away, but they are kept together by a bridge.
Middle left is Garten, to the right of it Storfosna.
From Garten there is an hourly ferry to the island Storfosna. Storfosna is 11 km2 and has approximately 100 inhabitants. They are well used to bicycle tourists on the ferry, but the ferry guy commented that we were the first in 2022. And oddly enough also the first bathing tourists this year…
The name Fosen comes from the Norse word ‘fólgsn’ = hiding place. This reflects the well protected bay between Storfosna and the peninsula Fosenheia, which later gave name to the whole peninsula Fosenhalvøya (The Fosen peninsula).
The bay at Storfosna gave good protection against weather and enemies.
Further south, there is a similar, smaller hiding place: Lille-Fosen. Since 1742 it has been called Kristiansund. The stone age period Fosnakulturen has its name from Lille-Fosen, but is not a topic in today’s article.
Storfosen manor is well known from the 12th century. It is one of the largest in Trøndelag and formerly belonged to the crown. The farm was under Austrått for a long time, and “Lady Inger” lived here from 1524, as a widow.
Storfosna manor has an area of 4440 decare.
Storfosna has plenty of lovely beaches, but in the bay they are mostly very shallow. Idun still wanted a bath in the proper “hiding space”, so we walked down to the water from the chuch. Here we found beautiful, white sand and crystal clear water, but the tide was low and the water too shallow for a swim. So we walked on onto a small peninsula and found a boat house made of stone and concrete, a perfect bath house of the day! It reminded us of the halfway buried turf houses on Iceland.
Well camuflaged boat house on Storfosna.
The boat house shielded us from the wind and was a comfortable place to change for a swim with a view!
Swim with a view.
A selfie is always required, this time with the manor behind us and the boat house to the left of the picture.
Local spa facilities!
And after the bath the mandatory hot chocolate and some Eddie.
Changing hiding place in the big hiding place.
A great bath! The weather changes quickly in Trøndelag, but Ørlandet this day really outdid itself, the weather never was stable for more than 10 minutes! Back on the bikes after the bath, the hail came horizontally right in our faces.
Knut looks forward to bicycling in the hailstorm.
The bike ride offered lots of bird life: Swans, seagulls, cormorants, eagles… In Ørlandet there are several bird protectorats, so be aware of limited access in the hatching period!
Deer on the road. More precisely right behind the road. And one behind the road sign.
The big population of deer on Storfosna gave us a nice surprise at sunset. Bicycling, island hopping and bathing on Ørlandet is hereby recommended!
Kristiansund with its 25,000 enthusiastic inhabitants started its opera tradition in 1928, 32 years before Oslo got it’s opera.
Kristiansund, with the island ‘Innlandet’ to the left.
Every year, in February, the city is filled with small and large events. The whole city is in party mood, and we have joined the festival several years in a row, naturally enough since Idun has worked for a couple of years in Kristiansund. – Try it yourself – this is fun! Tempting bubbles can be found even in the shoe store! Doesn’t get better than that!
We were tempted, indeed. There were free bubbles and not quite as free shoes before noon on a Saturday.
There were no less than 3 generations of Bræin who were behind Kristansund’s development into an opera city: Christian Bræin, Edvard Bræin and Edvard Fliflet Bræin. The larger productions take place in Kristiansund’s main hall ‘Festiviteten’, but during the opera weeks you can experience small and large cultural events almost anywhere: At a café, restaurants, ‘Sundbåten’ or maybe at the library. The small, charming boat ‘Sundbåten’ has been on route between the ‘lands’ (islands) in Kristiansund since 1876.
While waiting: A view of a “seagull stand” (Måsestativ) but no Sundbåt in sight.
In a city consisting of three islands and one peninsula, there are many swimming opportunities of course. This time we promote the simplest alternative for opera bath enthusiasts visiting Kristiansund: The beautiful, tiny beach by the Thon Hotel on the island ‘Innlandet’.
White mini beach at the Innlandet island.
Here we have bathed several times, both with and without hotel booking, and the water has been crystal clear every single time. The reseptionists send somewhat weird looks as we pass the reception on the way in and out, but so be it.
Fresh! Cold! Wonderful!
…and after the bath it’s just the right time to party.
“Burns’ supper” is celebrated around the world about 25th of January every year. Then it’s time to eat haggis, drink whisky and preferrably recite some poems of Scotlands national poet Robert Burns. He lived in the latter half of the 1700s and wrote about politics, but also everyday life and of course of love, in a way people could understand and relate to.
Best known around the world is probably “Auld Lang Syne”, but his most iconic poem many would say, is “Tam o’ Shanter”. It tells about Tom, who is riding home in a heavy rainstorm and comes across the Devil himself and a gang of witches dancing. It ends with the witch Nannie and the whole lot setting after Tom. Nannie manages to grab a hold of the mare’s tail just as it jumps upon a bridge. And thereby saves Tom and herself, because: “A running stream they dare not cross!”. But back on the riverside, Nannie stands with the mare’s tail in her arms.
To honour Robert Burns, we held a “Burns’ supper”, corona-restricted to just a couple of friends. Next day we went for a photo shoot. Firstly, we needed a horse. After some thinking we checked the market online for rocking horses and soon enough could pick up one almost for free.
As a suitable bridge, we had read about Trondheim’s possibly oldest bridge: Stokkbrua, a nice, vaulted stone bridge. Knut even went to check out the bridge beforehand.
The crossing between “Gamle Jonsvannsveg” and Stokkbekken, as described, was easy to find, but the bridge had lost some of it’s former glory:
… where the construction of the new road had removed the vault. Somewhat disappointing, but right below it, we discovered a small walking bridge that was quite suitable:
… and even a nice bath tub between these two bridges.
So we took our scissors to cut of the mare’s tail and found a describing posture:
…Nannie with the mare’s tail
While we changed clothes for the bath, a familiy with a small girl came by. Since the horse had served our purpose, we gave it to them and they could continue their Sunday walk happy, but slightly confused, with a rocking horse and a disconnected tail in their hands.
Stokkbekken has a fun bath tub with a natural jacuzzi.
Even though the bathing spot worked nicely, we are not sure we will recommend it. We both thought there was an unpleasant smell in Stokkbekken. Nothing to do with the haggis the previous day!
Afterwards, we have found that we had visited a (nameless?) bridge on what the map says is called “Gamle Jonsvannsveg” today, while Stokkbrua is under what now is a gravel walking path a couple of hundred meters further upstream. This gravel road was an even older version of “Jonsvannsvegen”. And the real Stokkbrua is still intact in all it’s glory! And most likely built during Burns lifetime!
This is the real Stokkbrua, maybe Trondheims oldest bridge!
Our wedding anniversary was approaching and the question was where to go to celebrate such a beautiful, round number as 29? After having been locked in at home office, first because of corona restrictions, then the storm Gyda, we felt an urge to leave our home for a while. We went to the mansion Bårdshaug Herregård in Orkanger, 42 km west of Trondheim. But who was Bård?
Bårdshaug Herregård was built by Christian Thams between 1890 and 1904 and consists of buildings in many styles put together like a fairytale castle. The tower is in Jugend style and has a chandelier that stretches over 2 floors. Classy!
The tower at Bårdshaug
Christian Thams was an architect, founder, business man, minister, consul and mansion owner. He took over the wood processing company Strandheim Brug in 1890 and amongst other things started production of prefabricated houses.
Strandheim Brug made the prefabricated stave church “The Norway building” for the world exhibition in Chicago in 1893. The church, now called the “Thams pavillion”, came back to Orkanger in 2017 after 123 years in the USA. Thanks to local patriots (whom the Norwegian Minister Of Culture with positive intent called “some crazy locals in Orkanger”) in the project group “Home again” (Heimatt), you now can visit this lovely stave church at Bårdshaug:
At the mansion you are welcomed with: ‘Heill ok Sæll’ = Healthy and Happy. Quite suitable for a wedding anniversary at our age?
Knut found a grand piano to play on in the ladies’ after dinner room, which another visitor jumpingly appreciated:
Idun liked the men’s after dinner room better: The library. Most of the books are said to be rather risqué, french literature!
Christians Thams was more than averagely interested in hunting (and ladies…)
Knut found the stairways to be even more interesting:
Come on baby, light my fire!
For the big occation we had reserved the King’s room. The bed was made for the visit of King Oscar II at Bårdshaug in 1902.
The King’s bedroom
The King’s room has since been used by King Leopold II (of Belgium), King Olav V, Crown Prince Håkon Magnus and Crown Princess Mette Marit. YES, it felt royal!
If this lady could talk…
The bath of the day had to be in the river Orkla, which passes right behind Bårdshaug. We had received a tip that there are nice, marked hiking paths both east and west of the river. And yes, the paths where overwhelmingly well marked. Overwhelmingly!
Thorough marking.
Jumping from Gjølme bridge was supposed to be standard procedure for bold swimmers in Orkanger, but we chickened out from that challenge. The river water was brown after the storm Gyda. We didn’t want to risk “a Birgit” (Norwegian para-athletic who lost use of both legs after jumping into shallow water) by jumping into muddy water without seeing the river bottom.
Well… was it really a good idea to jump from Gjølme bridge?
However, to the west of Orkla, right downstream from Gjølme bru we found this bird box:
The bird box west of Orkla.
With stairs down to the water inside the box!
Strangely enough, there where no benches or lockers for changing. Wasn’t this a bathing house after all? Anyway, for us it became one, even though getting out under it was a little unpractical.
NB! Don’t even think about jumping in from the upper floor! It is veeery shallow here. Except that, a great wedding anniversary bath: Brown, muddy, cold and snow in the wind. Can’t get any better! Or?
Back home the man in the house had done his part for a nice return:
The winter wonderland of january was supposed to be visited by the extreme weather named Gyda. Getting a nice winter bath before the storm was urgent. We packed our bags early in the morning, so we got time to visit Storsand (the Big Beach) in Malvik after work.
Storsand farm main house in Malvik
The Storsand farm main house is like a fairytale castle, squeezed in between the old E6 road and the railroad track heading east from Trondheim. The main house is unlike the typical regional “Trønderlåna” houses. New owners, from Trondheim city, wanted the farm to have more of a mansion feeling to it. Quite successful, we think.
Inspiration from Trondheim can also be seen in the railroad bridge on the farms grounds, a copy of “The Old City Bridge” in Trondheim, also called “The portal of happiness”. Nice touch!
Storsand Old City BridgeMoon light on the Old City Bridge
Even though the moon was only 3/4, it looks full on the pictures. You need a better camera and a flash to get a nice moon and people in the same picture, it seems.
Storsand Camping is well arranged, with a playing ground, ball playing areas, a barbecue fireplace and most of what you need for a day at the beach with or without kids. The activity in january is rather low, though, we recommend going in season, which at Storsand starts in May.
No campers to be seen here in january – 2022.
There were no paying guests to be seen on the pier. No other guests at all, actually.
The pier on Storsand. Signs say private, only for paying guests.
Thus the population density on the beach this day was something we could live with. Their loss, it was a really nice day! The water in January is clear as glass, the temperature slightly below 4 degrees Celsius and a wide, lovely beach to bathe from. The Big Beach deserves it’s name!
The moon shines on eastern Storsand.
When you go out into the water, it is steep enough that you don’t have to walk miles to be able to swim. If just splashing around gets too boring, you can swim around the pier or out to the tiny island.
Storsand at sunset.
We didn’t swim to the island this time, though. Without a boat to follow us, it was too cold and too dark.
Storsand Pier
We didn’t even swim around or under the Pier. But Knut tested his newest thingy for the GoPro, a big dome, making it easier to get pictures under and over the water at the same time. Cool effect! GoPro in the dark wasn’t too impressive, however, the pictures got blurry while splashing around.
Testing the dome for under/over water pictures
The standing pads were there, as planned. But in the lack of blackcurrant juice, the person in charge of hot drinks tried a 15 year old straight-in-the-cup tomato soup, dug out from the inner corners of our kitchen closets. Not very successful, from a culinary point of view.
Well at home, with the absence of our beloved friend “Eddie” (a liquor called “Gammel Dansk”), the Tindved liquor from the berry picking of our bath trip to Ørlandet was brought forward. It tasted very…eeeh…strong. Maybe just as well we didn’t spend hours picking more than the 50g we brought home.
Tindved liquor in the glass and a fire in the fireplace and you get warm in no time
The beginning of 2022 has been a real winter wonderland here in Trøndelag. Now it was time to go back to Malvik, to Næverdalen (“Never” in Norwegian means birch bark, could be the name origin) this time. We had received a tip that the river Nævra has a nice waterfall and we wanted to check it out. The lumberjack we met by the bridge (he was OK…sleeps all night and works all day?) could inform us that we shouldn’t talk about _the_ waterfall, but the waterfalls. There are ten in a row, with the rather prosaic names “One” to “Ten”.
Lovely winter – january 2022.
At winter time it’s better to take only one waterfall in one trip, so we made the simple decision of starting with the closest, assuming it was “One”. Or maybe they start numbering from the origin of the river, so this was “Ten”? We hadn’t thought of asking, it seemed so obvious at the time.
Well, that’s what we call a bath tub!
There wasn’t really any pathway to the waterfall, so we had to wade in deep snow down through the forest to reach it. Not very crowded here this beautiful winter day, strangely enough, but in summer time this is said to be a popular bathing spot.
Time to take the plunge?
Oh, no, first some research! Knut wanted to see if it was possible to bathe in the waterfall itself, in nature’s own jacuzzi. And it really did look tempting:
But the supervisor of Health and Security pointed out the risk of getting falling ice blocks in the head and raised the veto flag.
So finally a “go” for a swim:
… with the photographer right behind. A great bath! Nice, smooth rocks on the waterbed and no climbing over bigger, unsteady rocks. Not quite even water depth, though.
The photographer left the camera to do it’s thing and also took a bath, of course.
Only seconds after the picture above, we realized there was a rather strong current drawing us towards the main stream. Not that it would have been directly dangerous, but if we were dragged in we would have had to make a big circle going 10-15 m downstream first before we could swim back to our little backwater pool. A couple of strong swim strokes avoided that detour and brought us back the same way we came in.
The changing zone was already prepared when we got up:
Standing pads are great.
We felt like professionals when we took out the hot black current juice and really enjoyed the view.
No trouble this time? Well… except that when we checked the map afterwards, we realized that this was just another dip in the river Homla. The river Nævra runs into Homla slightly higher up than the bridge. Next time…
Green arrow: Homla. Blue arrow: Nævra. Read arrow: our bath tub. Map: Ut.no.
We assume this wasn’t neither the Nævra “One” or “Ten”, but maybe “Homlafossen”? Who knows?
