Bath o’ Shanter

Drunk riding is much more acceptable than drunk driving!

Tobatheornottobathe visited Scotland in 2024, much out of a desire to follow in Burns’ footsteps. Robert Burns (1759 – 1796) is Scotland’s national poet, and his birthday on January 25th is celebrated with Burns Suppers wherever there are Scots. Preferably with haggis and whiskey, poetry readings, folk music (preferably bagpipes) and dancing (preferably folk dance, céilidh).

Knut got a horse as a birthday present on the trip. No wonder the suitcase was heavy!

Burns’ poetry ranges from humor and everyday life to beautiful landscapes and love poems. Perhaps the most famous are ‘Auld Lang Syne‘ and ‘A Red, Red Rose‘, which are performed in different versions all over the world. As an example, Evert Taube has a version of ‘My love is like a red, red rose‘, which he translated to ‘Min älskling, du er som en ros‘ (in Swedish). He created a new melody, but the lyrics are directly translated. Tobatheornottobathe’s favorite poem, however, is ‘Tam o’ Shanter‘, a rather long story about Tam, who gets drunk in the pub and has an eventful trip home. If you’re really lucky, maybe you’ll get to hear Knut perform the poem, in Hartvig Kiran’s fantastic New Norwegian translation?

Idun had a sore knee, and alternative transportation was needed. She never got a horse as a birthday present.

In the poem, Tam starts the evening in the town of Ayr, at the pub which is now, curiously enough, called ‘Tam o’ Shanter’ and which is supposedly the real Tam o’ Shanter pub. From Ayr he rides home to Alloway, the village where Robert Burns himself was born.

Robert Burns’ birth place and childhood home in Alloway.

It turned out to be a dramatic journey, ending at Brig o’ Doon, the bridge over the river Doon that Burns’ father crossed every day on his way to work. The bridge has been proposed for demolition several times, but has been saved every time due to the great popularity of both the poet and the poem.

Brig o’ Doon in Alloway.

For Tobatheornottobathe it was natural to think that a bath under Brig o’ Doon would be just great? Well it wasn’t simple, that’s for sure! On the eastern bank you’ll find the Brig o’ Doon House Hotel (where you can have big, fancy parties, maybe even celebrate Burns Supper?), but they had put up prohibition signs on the riverbank. Tobatheornottobathe normally try to avoid ignoring such signs as much as possible. Really! But ‘as much as possible’ doesn’t mean ‘always‘…

Brig o’ Doon House Hotel seen from Brig o’ Doon.

On the western bank, however, there is not much activity , actually it seems well-suited for swimming, the field going all the way down to the river. Then we discovered the fence… The gate was locked with a bicycle combination lock.

To cross the fence here was not right, at least not for Idun, with her bad knee and short legs.

Knut, however, doesn’t give up that easy. He took a stroll up towards the farm, met a random guy and asked how forbidden it really was to cross the meadow to take a bath (fences can be about keeping livestock in and not necessarily people out). Well, it wasn’t sooo forbidden, ‘You won’t get shot!‘, he said. So Knut used the ‘how to unlock a combination lock without knowing the code – trick‘, it took less than half a minute, and Idun was able to hobble through the gate on crutches. We could have a bath!

Knut Lupin strikes again.

Then it was just a matter of strolling down to the riverbank, changing and getting into the water.

The bath was both troublesome and shallow, but otherwise it was just right to have a dip under Brig o’ Doon. The water was clear and without any unpleasant taste.

After the bath, some lively music in the car is a good idea. One possibility is Iron Maiden’s ‘The number of the beast‘, which is supposed to be (very) loosely based on Tam o’ Shanter. But preferably Michael Jackson’s megahit ‘Thriller‘. MJ was a Burns fan, and the music video, where he dances with zombies, is undoubtedly inspired by the poem (Warlocks and witches in a dance…). In fact, Michael Jackson planned an entire musical based on Burns’ poem, accompanied by modern music, but all 3 of the most important people died before it came to fruition.

The phrase ‘Cutty Sark‘ in the poem means a short-cut dress or shirt. The word comes from the Old Norse ‘serkr’, meaning underwear or nightwear. The phrase has later been applied to boats, and every genuine ‘Cutty Sark‘ ship has a figurehead of a lady holding a ponytail in front of her.

And now time is just right to present the poem itself. In Scots. By twisting the words a little, you should be able to get the essence, even if it’s a little archaic:

Tam o’ Shanter

When chapman billies leave the street,
And drouthy neebors neebors meet,
As market-days are wearing late,
And folk begin to tak the gate;
While we sit bousin, at the nappy,
And gettin fou and unco happy,
We think na on the lang Scots miles,
The mosses, waters, slaps, and stiles,
That lie between us and our hame,
Whare sits our sulky, sullen dame,
Gathering her brows like gathering storm,
Nursing her wrath to keep it warm.

This truth fand honest Tam o’ Shanter,
As he frae Ayr ae night did canter:
(Auld Ayr, wham ne’er a town surpasses,
For honest men and bonie lasses.)

The Burns Pilgrimage Trail must go via the Tam o’ Shanter Close.

O Tam! had’st thou but been sae wise
As taen thy ain wife Kate’s advice!
She tauld thee weel thou was a skellum,
A bletherin, blusterin, drunken blellum;
That frae November till October,
Ae market-day thou was na sober;
That ilka melder wi’ the miller,
Thou sat as lang as thou had siller;
That ev’ry naig was ca’d a shoe on,
The smith and thee gat roarin fou on;
That at the Lord’s house, ev’n on Sunday,
Thou drank wi’ Kirkton Jean till Monday.
She prophesied, that, late or soon,
Thou would be found deep drown’d in Doon;
Ot catch’d wi’ warlocks in the mirk,
By Alloway’s auld haunted kirk.

On the way into the pub. The horse Meg has to wait outside.

Ah, gentle dames! it gars me greet,
To think how mony counsels sweet,
How mony lengthen’d sage advices,
The husband frae the wife despises!

But to our tale:—Ae market night,
Tam had got planted unco right,
Fast by an ingle, bleezing finely,
Wi’ reaming swats that drank divinely;
And at his elbow, Souter Johnie,
His ancient, trusty, drouthy crony:
Tam lo’ed him like a vera brither;
They had been fou for weeks thegither.
The night drave on wi’ sangs and clatter;
And ay the ale was growing better:
The landlady and Tam grew gracious
Wi’ secret favours, sweet, and precious:
The souter tauld his queerest stories;
The landlord’s laugh was ready chorus:
The storm without might rair and rustle,
Tam did na mind the storm a whistle.

Ready for the Knut o’ Shanter night. No Landlady in sight.

Care, mad to see a man sae happy,
E’en drown’d himsel amang the nappy:
As bees flee hame wi’ lades o’ treasure,
The minutes wing’d their way wi’ pleasure;
Kings may be blest, but Tam was glorious,
O’er a’ the ills o’ life victorious!

The road to Alloway is not very scary in daylight. The asphalt is not as old as the poem (from 1790).

But pleasures are like poppies spread,
You seize the flow’r, its bloom is shed;
Or like the snow falls in the river,
A moment white—then melts forever;
Or like the borealis race,
That flit ere you can point their place;
Or like the rainbow’s lovely form
Evanishing amid the storm.
Nae man can tether time or tide:
The hour approaches Tam maun ride,—
That hour, o’ night’s black arch the key-stane
That dreary hour he mounts his beast in;
And sic a night he taks the road in,
As ne’er poor sinner was abroad in.

The path to the forest was too demanding for us, half of Tobatheornottobathe sitting in a wheelchair. There was no walk in the forest.

The wind blew as ‘twad blawn its last;
The rattling show’rs rose on the blast;
The speedy gleams the darkness swallow’d;
Loud, deep, and lang the thunder bellow’d:
That night, a child might understand,
The Deil had business on his hand.

Weel mounted on his grey mare, Meg,
A better never lifted leg,
Tam skelpit on thro’ dub and mire,
Despising wind and rain and fire;
Whiles holding fast his guid blue bonnet,
Whiles crooning o’er some auld Scots sonnet,
Whiles glowrin round wi’ prudent cares,
Lest bogles catch him unawares.
Kirk-Alloway was drawing nigh,
Whare ghaists and houlets nightly cry.

The churchyard by Alloway Auld Kirk.

By this time he was cross the ford,
Whare in the snaw the chapman smoor’d;
And past the birks and meikle stane,
Whare drucken Charlie brak’s neckbane:
And thro’ the whins, and by the cairn,
Whare hunters fand the murder’d bairn;
And near the thorn, aboon the well,
Whare Mungo’s mither hang’d hersel.
Before him Doon pours all his floods;
The doubling storm roars thro’ the woods;
The lightnings flash from pole to pole,
Near and more near the thunders roll;
When, glimmering thro’ the groaning trees,
Kirk-Alloway seem’d in a bleeze:
Thro’ ilka bore the beams were glancing,
And loud resounded mirth and dancing.

Alloway Auld Kirk.

Inspiring bold John Barleycorn!
What dangers thou can’st make us scorn!
Wi’ tippenny we fear nae evil;
Wi’ usquebae we’ll face the devil!


The swats sae ream’d in Tammie’s noddle,
Fair play, he car’d na deils a boddle.
But Maggie stood right sair astonish’d,
Till, by the heel and hand admonish’d,
She ventur’d forward on the light;
And, wow! Tam saw an unco sight!

Most things can happen inside an old church… But early in the day you won’t see the Devil playing the bagpipes in the church.

Warlocks and witches in a dance;
Nae cotillion brent-new frae France,
But hornpipes, jigs, strathspeys, and reels
Put life and mettle in their heels.
A winnock bunker in the east,
There sat Auld Nick in shape o’ beast:
A towzie tyke, black, grim, and large,
To gie them music was his charge;
He screw’d the pipes and gart them skirl,
Till roof and rafters a’ did dirl.—
Coffins stood round like open presses,
That shaw’d the dead in their last dresses;
And by some devilish cantraip sleight
Each in its cauld hand held a light,
By which heroic Tam was able
To note upon the haly table
A murderer’s banes in gibbet airns;
Twa span-lang, wee, unchristen’d bairns;
A thief, new-cutted frae the rape—
Wi’ his last gasp his gab did gape;
Five tomahawks, wi’ blude red-rusted;
Five scimitars, wi’ murder crusted;
A garter, which a babe had strangled;
A knife, a father’s throat had mangled,
Whom his ain son o’ life bereft—
The grey hairs yet stack to the heft;
Wi’ mair o’ horrible and awfu’,
Which ev’n to name wad be unlawfu’.

What’s the buzz?

As Tammie glowr’d, amaz’d and curious,
The mirth and fun grew fast and furious:
The piper loud and louder blew,
The dancers quick and quicker flew;
They reel’d, they set, they cross’d, they cleekit
Till ilka carlin swat and reekit
And coost her duddies to the wark
And linket at it in her sark!

Now Tam, O Tam! had thae been queans,
A’ plump and strapping in their teens!
Their sarks, instead o’ creeshie flannen,
Been snaw-white seventeen hunder linen!—
Thir breeks o’ mine, my only pair,
That ance were plush, o’ gude blue hair,
I wad hae gien them aff y hurdies,
For ae blink o’ the bonie burdies!

But wither’d beldams, auld and droll,
Rigwoodie hags wad spean a foal,
Lowping and flinging on a crummock.
I wonder didna turn thy stomach.

But Tam ken’d what was what fu’ brawlie;
There was ae winsom wench and walie,
That night enlisted in the core
(Lang after ken’d on Carrick shore.
For mony a beast to dead she shot,
And perish’d mony a bonie boat,
And shook baith meikle corn and bear,
And kept the country-side in fear);
Her cutty sark o’ Paisley harn,
That while a lassie she had worn,
In longitude tho’ sorely scanty,
It was her best, and she was vauntie.
Ah! little ken’d thy reverend grannie,
That sark she coft for her wee Nannie,
Wi’ twa pund Scots (’twas a’ her riches),
Wad ever grac’d a dance of witches!

The road downwards past Brig o’ Doon House Hotel. Brig o’ Doon can be seen in the background.

But here my Muse her wing maun cow’r,
Sic flights are far beyond her pow’r;
To sing how Nannie lap and flang,
(A souple jad she was and strang),
And how Tam stood like ane bewitch’d,
And thought his very een enrich’d;
Even Satan glowr’d and fidg’d fu’ fain,
And hotch’d and blew wi’ might and main:
Till first ae caper, syne anither,
Tam tint his reason a’ thegither,
And roars out, “Weel done, Cutty-sark!”
And in an instant all was dark:
And scarcely had he Maggie rallied,
When out the hellish legion sallied.

As bees bizz out wi’ angry fyke,
When plundering herds assail their byke;
As open pussie’s mortal foes,
When, pop! she starts before their nose;
As eager runs the market-crowd,
When “Catch the thief!” resounds aloud;
So Maggie runs, the witches follow,
Wi’ mony an eldritch skriech and hollo.

Tam fled over Brig o’ Doon.

Ah, Tam! ah, Tam! thou’ll get thy fairin!
In hell they’ll roast thee like a herrin!
In vain thy Kate awaits thy comin!
Kate soon will be a woefu’ woman!
Now, do thy speedy utmost, Meg,
And win the key-stane of the brig:
There at them thou thy tail may toss,
A running stream they dare na cross.
But ere the key-stane she could make,
The fient a tail she had to shake!
For Nannie far before the rest,
Hard upon noble Maggie prest,
And flew at Tam wi’ furious ettle;
But little wist she Maggie’s mettle—
Ae spring brought aff her master hale
But left behind her ain grey tail:
The carlin claught her by the rump,
And left poor Maggie scarce a stump.

Maggie got hold of the tail, but Tom was saved on the bridge!

Now, wha this tale o’ truth shall read,
Ilk man and mother’s son, take heed,
Whene’er to drink you are inclin’d,
Or cutty-sarks run in your mind,
Think, ye may buy the joys o’er dear,
Remember Tam o’ Shanter’s mear.

Robert Burns, 1790.

The Green Hats

One of the coziest cafes in Akureyri is ‘Bláa Kannan’ (the Blue Tea Pot), with its two frequently photographed towers. Under that Blue Tea Pot there are Green Hats! Græni Hatturinn (the Green Hats) is the concert venue in Akureyri, which actually stayed partially open during the corona period. This is a very nice place, with a good selection of various bjór (pronounced bjaor), i.e. beer, but you probably already knew that.

 Græni Hatturinn below the Bláa Kannan Cafe.

Here we can recommend a concert with, for example, the band ‘Hjálmar‘, who plays a nice mix of raggie and folk music (we do often plan the Iceland trip according to the program at Græni Hatturinn). Or maybe you’d rather be amused by the white idiots: ‘Ljótu hárvívitarning‘? In Icelandic! This is reminiscent of Prima Vera, listen to this song as an example: ‘Ég fer á traktornum‘. Or, perhaps, an alternative might be to check out ‘Papar‘, Irish music in Icelandic. However, the titles are somewhat strange: ‘Og þá stundi Mundi‘ = ‘The Wild Rover‘…

Anniversary book for ‘Græni Hatturinn’.

Before the concert, swimming training is a good idea. Straight up the hill and past Akureyrikirkja, you will find Sundlaug Akureyri, Akureyri’s public pool.

Akureyri church from 1940 was designed by Guðjón Samúelsson. The architecture is inspired by basalt columns. Here you can see a representation of goða Þorgeir Þorkelsson throwing his pagan idols into Goðafoss.

This is a slightly larger swimming facility than usual, with 2 outdoor swimming pools, many different hot tubs and a sauna. Akureyri Sundlaug is a bathing paradise for children with several children’s pools, a long slide and 2 jumping castles. After the swim, when you are clean and ready to party, just put on your green hat and go.

The sculpture ‘Systrurnar’ (The Sisters) below Akureyri Sundlaug is modeled by Ásmund Sveinsson.
A bath and a green hat, and Idun is ready for party. Illustration photo (we usually don’t take photos in public swimming pools).

Old Akureyri

Akureyri was originally two settlements: The houses on the ‘øra’ where Gleráverfi is located today, and in the south, Old Akureyri, where you will find the Minjasafnið á Akureyri (Akureyri Museum). Today’s city center is basically situated between these. From the 17th century, trade was conducted here in the summer months, as there are good harbor conditions. However, the Danes did not stay at winter time until well into the 18th century. At Gleráverfi, in the 20th century, there were a number of ramps out into the sea during the herring fishing, and a lot of activity.

Gleráverfi, with a view towards old Akureyri. Here the herring boats were parked side by side in the 20th century.

Akureyri Museum exhibits a number of old maps and also has a section on the topic Icelandic popular music. The museum is interesting, even if the selected subjects have little to do with each other.

Gramophone concert, announced at Minjasafnið á Akureyri.

There is an exhibition in the basement that emphasizes the Icelanders’ struggle to free themselves from the Danish trade monopoly. Iceland joined Norway into the Kalmar Union in 1397, and the Danes got a monopoly on all trade. The problem was that there were no duties attached to the trade rights. Although the need for imported goods was critical for the population, one could never be sure that Danish ships actually arrived on Iceland every year. At the same time, vessels from other countries, or the Icelanders themselves, risked large fines for trading – regardless of whether Danish ships actually traded or not. In short, a moving story, well told and definitely worth a visit!

Art in old Akureyri.

After a visit to the museum, a swim is a good idea. Take the car and drive further into the fjord ending, to the forest Vaðlaskógur. The forest is named after the mountain Vaðlaheiði on the east side of Eyjafjörður (the fjord with an island). Before 1985, the road from Akureyri to Húsavík was both steep and winding over Vaðlaheiði and through a small canyon called Steinsskarð. Here one might be able to see the remains of a small shed, which some believe inspired the construction of Iceland’s longest word ever:

Vaðlaheiðarvegavinnuverkfærageymsluskúr‘ =
Vadlaheið’s road construction’s tool storage shed

Today there is a tunnel under Vaðlaheiði, called Vaðlaheiðargöng. At Eyafjörður, the tunnel opening is close to the village of Svalbarðseyri, that immediately gave Idun the good, homely feeling, even though it is otherwise not very similar to Longyearbyen, Svalbard, where she grew up.

Vaðlaheiðargöng opened in 2018, which shortened the route between Akureyri and Húsavík by 16 km. NB! You have 48 hours to pay the toll if you haven’t done so in advance. Tobatheornottobathe finds is hard to remember those kinds of deadlines and recommend paying in advance!

Forest Lagoon opened in 2022 and is located – actually! – in a forest.

During the construction of the Vaðlaheiðargöng in 2014, there were problems with water seepage. But the misfortune turned to luck, as the water turned out to be a geothermal source! That, in turn, inspired the couple Sigríður Hammer and Finnur Aðalbjörnsson to build the Forest Lagoon.

Wood is a recurring element in Forest Lagoons interior. Akureyri can be seen in the background.

Eyafarðar skogbruksforening got a contract with the land owner in 1936 to plant a forest on their marshes, at the inner end of Eyafjörður. The tree planting was completed in 1970, and today it is a strange feeling to enter an Icelandic forest here up in the north region, where there are no wild trees at all. The spa is very beautiful and has everything you could ever dream of: hot and cold baths, saunas, a restaurant, all with inspiration from the forest and rocky hill behind. Absolutely recommended!

A nice bath in the forest!

Akureyri

Colorful sidewalk in Akureyri.

Akureyri (the acre in the delta) – the capital of Norðurlands Eystri (North Eastern Region), is a university town with all facilities and a bustling public life even though the population is only 20,000.

Not very colorful Akureyri town, seen from the fjord Eyjafjörður’s inner end.

According to Landnámabók (the conquest book), the settlement of Eyjafjörður started with Helgi Magri sometime in the 9th century. His father, Eivind, was originally Swedish, and moved westwards via Norway. Helge was born in Ireland, but left for fostering in the Suðrøyene (Hebrides, west of Scotland) as an infant. When his parents picked him up 2 years later, he had become so thin that they hardly recognized him, hence the nickname ‘magri’ = ‘the skinny one’. Fostering children was a form of alliance building in the Viking Age, and foster children had the same rights as their own children. But one wonders how good the relationships were after this… And let’s hope that the foster family didn’t also have daughters! In the book ‘Auðr’, Kim Hjardar writes that in the Viking Age 7% of men and 37% of women were malnourished as children. Helgi married Torunn, who was the daughter of Kjetil Flatnose and sister of Aud the Deep-Thinking (the same Auðr mentioned above), and they had many children. Their settlement was the largest in Iceland, larger than the settlement of Ingólfur Arnarson. Helgi was a Christian, but when it really came down to life or death (for example in stormy weather at sea), he invoked the thunder god Þor instead.

Akureyri’s most characteristic building, with Bláa Kannan café on the 1st floor.

The first time Akureyri is mentioned by name in written sources is in a judgment from 1562, when a woman was convicted of having slept with a man without being married. But don’t let this put a damper on your mood! Akureyri is a place with a good spirit, several cozy cafes and an abundant number of restaurants and bars.

Idun enjoys life at Kafe Limur. Trying to learn Icelandic, but that’s quite a challenge.

Before you go out to party, taking a bath is just right. This time, we recommend a morning dip! We made it incredibly easy by changing at the hotel, crossing Drotningarbraut (Queen’s Road), climbing over the boulders and swim there. Clear and beautiful water, lots of birds and clean water even though it’s close by an active harbor.

A bath in Eyjafjörður is just right!

Ref: ‘Auðr-Kvinneliv i vikingtid‘, Kim Hjardar, ISBN 978-82-430-1209-7

Ásbyrgi

An hour’s drive east of Húsavík is the norse god castle Ásbyrgi. What a place! A field surrounded on three sides by 100 m high cliffs, with a rocky island in between. The rock in the middle is called Eyjan (the Island). Seen from above, it all resembles a giant imprint of a horse’s hoof. Clearly this must be a track made by Odin’s horse Sleipner!

Sleipner’s footprint?

However, science interprets the Ásbyrgi geology somewhat differently. The lava rocks are formed by a volcanic eruption from Stóravíti some 10,000 years ago. The canyon was excavated later. 3,000 years ago, there were 3 active volcanoes under the glacier Vatnajökull, which created dramatic floods of meltwater northwards, and hence the Ásbyrgi cliffs.

At Ásbyrgi you will find nice hiking trails, and in the summer, guided tours are also organized in the area. Spend some time here!

The information sign. Ásbyrgi is 3.5 km long and 1.1 km wide. How big must the horse Sleipner have been to make such an imprint?

Those who can see elves (and in Iceland a lot of people do), have said that inside these cliffs there are many elf homes, public elf houses and even an elf concert hall. There are several elf stories connected to the place, including the impossible love between the poor boy Huginn and Heiðbláina, who was the daughter of the landlord in Ásbyrgi. Because of the difference in status, they were not allowed to marry, and they were very sad. One night an elf came to them in a dream. She was very unhappy, because her beloved had been bewitched into a water monster. Now he lived in lake Botnstjörn, Ásbyrgi, and could only come up when the midnight sun shone on the cliffs. The elf said that Heiðbláina could break the spell if she confronted the Nixie and threw her most valuable things into its gap. So the girl did, the curse was broken and the elf woman paid back by arranging for Huginn and Heiðbláina to get married after all. It always pays back to help an elf!

Idun didn’t hear any elves crying, and was looking forward to a bath in Botnstjörn.

If you hear crying in the elf’s home, it might be the elf Bjartmar mourning for the orphan Una, but that’s a long story that we won’t cover here. None of the Tobatheornottobathers have the ability to see or hear elves, so surely a bath in Botnstjörn could be a good idea? We have been to Ásbyrgi twice. The first time it was winter (April), and what could go wrong?

Elf Homes and the lake Botnstjörn in Ásbyrgi, winter.

Well, it was this thing with ice on the water… We couldn’t swim in April. So then we just had to try again, in September. What could possibly go wrong in autumn?

Botnstjörn in September.

When it comes to bathing, there is actually quite a lot that can go wrong. One classic problem: The water isn’t deep enough. Do you really want to have a bath when it will only be a small dip? No, a bath without getting your back wet is too stupid, so this bath became a ‘no‘. AND – by closer inspection: It is not allowed to go outside the path, so we had to conclude that swimming in Botnstjörn is in fact prohibited. Just as well Botnstjörn was too shallow, so we could let go of that temptation.

Knut is considering the Botnstjörn bathing area for the second time.

On the road between Húsavík and Ásbyrgi there is a small museum on a farm by the sea: Minjasafnið á Mánárbakka. It is well worth a visit! Here, among other things, they have found a pearl in the soil, a so-called ‘pearl of the eye‘. The pearl was professionally assessed in Norway, and we saw a letter from the Tromsø museum, which says that such eye pearls date from the late Viking Age (9th century), with a place of origin in Turkmenistan (!). In Norway, 55 eye pearls have been found, including Lofoten and in Troms (Kvaløya).

Charming turf houses at Mánárbakka. Please remember to bring some cash for the tickets, as they don’t accept credit cards at Mánárbakka.

A visit to the Mánárbakka museum is just right on the way to or from Ásbyrgi. Even without cash to pay, we got a tour of the museum. The farm has belonged to the same family in an unbroken line since the Conquest period. As far as we can understand from the ‘Landnåmsboken’, this means that today’s residents are descendants of Bodolv, who emigrated from Agder, Norway, in the 7th century.

Conquest no. 39 in Norðurland Eystra, Tjörnes, was taken by Bodolv. From ‘Landnåmsboken’.

A man named Bodolv was the son of Grim Grimolvsson from Agder (Norway) and brother of Bodmond. He was married to Torunn, daughter of Torolv frode, and their son was Skjegge. They all went to Iceland, but their ship was wrecked at Tjörnes, and they were at Audolvsstad the first winter. Bodolv took all of Tjörnes between Tunguá and Os. He was then married to Torbjørg holmesol, daughter of Helgi magri. Their daughter was Torgerd, who was married to Åsmund Ondottsson.‘ Ref Landnåmsboken

Mánárbakka. In the absence of a (Christmas) tree, the solution could be a glittering iron tree.

P.S.: On our next Island trip, we sent cash to Mánárbakka, so we have settled our score!

Ref: ‘Landnåmsboken‘, ISBN 82-03-17753-0

The fulmars of Húsavík

Matching church and guest house in Húsavík.

While we were staying in Húsavík, we had a wish for a bath in the fjord – perhaps we could actually see puffins or other interesting elements of Iceland’s fauna. So we took a stroll northwards along the sea, past a dead end by the local motorcycle club, past the GeoSea spa and towards the silicon factory outside the city. We had to walk across old fences and such, but eventually we found a way down to the shore – before we reached PCC BakkiSilicon.

A perfect wardrobe, north of Húsavík.

This day we brought wetsuits, the idea was to swim a bit and not just dip for a few minutes. It was very low tide when we arrived. All the seaweed was dry, and the kelp forest was sticking up everywhere.

Low-low tide at Skjálfandi Bay.

There was a bit of a struggle to pass the kelp, and while we were working on it, an air raid started – by fulmars! Suddenly, a steady stream of birds swooped straight above our heads, we could almost grab them. The fulmars released their torpedoes, but the target hits were poor, and fortunately we got away without poo on our heads. A splendid experience!

Fulmar incoming!

Back on land, we observed steam on the shore. Steam? Here? Why? Knut went over and checked. Yes, it was a hot spring! On the shore, completely anonymous, surrounded by snow-covered mountains and a big, cold fjord. An absolutely perfect place for cold water swimming – as you can easily warm your toes afterwards. Iceland Niceland – what a country!

Smoke on the water. Not so easy to photograph, so this time the photographer became the subject.

Bath-vent at Lian

What’s going on here?

About 10 km from the center of Trondheim lies Lian (from the Old Norse ‘hlið‘ = sloping hill or mountain side), as part of Bymarka. There was little activity here until the idea of ​​a tram line emerged, probably inspired by the ‘Holmenkollbanen‘ in Kristiania (Oslo). Construction work started in 1922, but the rails did not reach Lian until 1933. And then things started to happen. The place quickly was taken into the heart of Trondheim’s residents. In the summer, this is a splendid area for swimming, fishing and camping. However, the fishing has been poor for a number of years, after rotenone treatment to remove fish parasites in 2017, but now (2024) it’s said to be good again (trout). What about winter activities, one might ask. Is there anything going on during winter time?

Preparing a bathing hole in 2024. You better switch sawing duty, so everyone gets warmed up. In the background, you can see Lian Restaurant, currently closed.

In the 1930’s, it wasn’t just skiing or ice skating on Lianvatnet (Lake Lian), there were also motorcycle and horse races on the ice. However, we haven’t heard any stories about ice bathing from ancient times. Has anyone heard about that? We want to know!

Motorcycle race on Lianvatnet in the 1930’s.

On a wet and grey December day in 2024, there was little else going on at Lianvatnet other than bathing in our bathing friend Taru’s swimming hole. Taru posts a video clip from her bathtub every day in Advent, like a ‘bath-vent‘ calendar. Tobatheornottobathe really wanted to be a part of that!

Peaceful atmosphere between Finnish and Norwegian bathers/ducks. Photo: Taru Uusinoka

Parts of Lianvannet are very shallow. Both Idun and Knut have partied and bathed in/by Helgelandshytta, and there it’s almost too shallow to swim. For Taru, who often bathes alone in her bathing hole, it is good to be in contact with the bottom, to be sure to get safely up again (good HSSE). That way, no bathing ladder is needed either.

‘There is a Rose at play)’. In Advent. At Lian. Photo: Taru Uusinoka

But as in Finnish television theaters on Norwegian TV in the 1970’s, the bathing couldn’t be all peaceful. One could hear both ‘fu*@‘ and ‘per&%#%‘, and in the end the axe was brought forward.

Finnish television theater in the 1970’s always ended with an ax. Photo: Taru Uusinoka

To reassure worried readers: Everyone came home safely!

…Little Boy, did you play Rose all by yourself? No good!

Slides in 4 levels

Tobatheornottobathe is always looking for new and funny bathing experiences, but it is expensive in the long run to travel a lot. In order to keep costs down, we often live in private homes instead of hotels, and we sometimes rent out our own house when we are away (through HomeExchange.com). However, traveling from place to place and washing unfamiliar apartments when we leave isn’t the most relaxing way to spend the vacation. At the end of the 2024 holiday in Sicily, we therefore spent 2 nights at an ‘All Inclusive’ resort near the Palermo airport.

No water shortage when the middle class goes on a luxury holiday.

Well… it was basically nice, it really was. But you eat in a canteen, not really in a restaurant, and after a short time you realize that all the food tastes similar.

The advantage of ‘tourist traps’ is that they also provide jobs for cultural workers. After almost 3 weeks in ordinary apartments, we – actually! – experienced Sicilian folk music.

The resort was nice and clean and quiet (October) and had lots of facilities. All the staff spoke English well, to be honest we had to admit that their English was better than our Italian! Very very annoying indeed…

Toilet for elderly ladies with hats – only to be accompanied by a bartender.

But once you’re actually situated at a resort like this, you have to make the best out of it! Very unusual for the Tobatheornottobathe: We did do sunbathing, almost one hour, and afterwards: exercise in the 50 m long pool. Big surprise! The water was cold and fresh. We expected sea water, but no. A really nice place to swim.

Idun swims as a butterfly in the 50-metre pool.

After exercise, time was just right for the slides! Idun had seen a picture on fb, showing slides in 4 levels. YES! This was really fun. The slides are short but steep, so the speed gets quite high.

First you take a slide taking you to a small, lower pool.
Then you take a second slide down to the next pool.
Then the third slide down to an even lower level.
Finally, the fourth slide down to…the sea!

Brilliant!

At last down in the water, we know now that we weren’t alone! We didn’t know it then, but one camera in the hand was one while we were swimming. This guy and his buddies seemed to be used to strange creatures plopping in from outside their world.

Notice the wonderfully sun tanned leg, after an hour in the sun!

You can spend a lot of time at the toboggans, and if there are young people in the family, you can expect them to hang out here all day long. There were a lot of warning signs, of course, but this one was maybe a bit over the top?

Hmm. The point of entering the water via a slide is basically not to enter gradually into the pool?

However, Badebade did not end the day by the taboggans. After riding the slides a few times, maybe it would be nice to enter the water the normal way too? The resort area was rather steep, with poor access to the sea. To enjoy the beach life, you can join a minibus to the nearest sandy beach – not accessible from the resort area.

Well, they have installed stairs down to the sea, so there is access. This night a bit scary because of heavy wind in the sunset.

Huh, that was exciting, but fun!‘ Idun said. A little later: ‘I have a strange feeling. One of my feet is sore. After wearing the same sandals every day for 3 weeks, I suddenly get a chafing today! How is that even possible?‘ It was not water from a chafing wound, it was blood from an unpleasant encounter with a rock on the shore.

Suspicious lemon thieves in the park!

After an otherwise super day in the water, it’s nice to round off with mini golf. Since we were off season, we couldn’t find an open bar and decided to make the refreshments ourselves. With untravelled lemon!

Out of season, you can fix the drinks yourself.

Conclusion? It was relaxing to do an ‘All Inclusive’! But recommend it? No and no again, we certainly won’t do that. On vacation you should always stay in ordinary neighborhoods and leave your money in small, local businesses. It is much more fun and better for everyone. Basta!

The Jewish Baths

The Jewish quarter still exists in Syracuse, but the Jews are gone.

Jews have lived in Sicily since Roman times (before the destruction of the Second Temple in Jerusalem, AD 70). These were for a large part slaves. During 200 years of Arab rule, there was basically freedom of religion, persecution of Jews became severe later, after the island was Catholic again, around 1210. Over the centuries, various laws were introduced; that the Jews should have a mark (red wheel) on their clothes, that they should have nothing to do with Catholics, they should live in certain areas of the cities (ghettos), forced participation in Christmas celebrations, etc.

The Jewish Quarter of Syracuse. ‘What happened to you? Nothing special, I haven’t lived here since 1492.’

Sicily came under Spanish rule in 1298. After this the persecutions got worse. Grenada, as the last region in Spain, freed itself from Muslim rule in 1492. King Ferdinand II of Aragon, but above all Queen Isabella I of Castile, insisted that the spanish population should be Catholic, and only Catholic. On March 31st, 1492, they issued an edict, ‘The Alhambra Decree‘, which gave all Jews (later also Muslims) a deadline to either convert to Christianity or leave the country – by July 31st the same year. As part of the Kingdom of Aragon, this also came to apply to Sicily. The number of Jews in Sicily was around 35,000 at the time. The only thing they were allowed to take with them was one set of changing clothes, a mattress and a set of bed linen. All other assets were confiscated, and they were not allowed to take neither gold nor other valuables out of the country.

Chiesa di San Filippo Apostolo in Syracuse.

Of Sicily’s Jews, about 25,000 moved to mainland Italy or the Ottoman Empire, where they were well received, while about 9,000 converted to Christianity in order to stay. As converts, they were highly suspected, they were nicknamed crypto-Jews (partly rightly so, since some continued to practice Judaism in secret), and many fell victim to the Inquisition. However, children of converted Jews were not persecuted by the Inquisition (as long as they were not baptized), and these could in principle grow up to become Jews again (with the risk of pogroms instead).

Under the church dedicated to the apostle Philip are the remains of a ‘Mikveh‘ – a Jewish ritual bath from before 1492. The water is crystal clear spring water, and the temptation was indeed sincere. Could there be a tiny tiny tiny chance of a bath here? NO!

The purification ceremony is for orthodox Judaism so important that they have to construct the mikveh before the synagogue. There are many requirements for a Jewish ritual bath. The water must come to the bath by itself (from a source) and not by the use of pumps or movement made by people or via a tank. The pool must be so large that a person can be completely covered by water. Before entering the bath, you have to be clean and naked. Ritual baths must take place before all holidays including the Sabbath, and for women also after menstruation and childbirth.

Beautifully carved stairs for access to the water.

When renovating a private house in Siracusa in the 1980’s, the owner came across a vault that was a bit strange. This was opened, and after removing a few hundred loads of sand and gravel, a large mikveh was found 8 meters below ground. The water is clean and clear, and the whole room has been carved directly out of the rock with axes – a very beautiful bathroom with vaults. Awesome!

Our strict guide did not let us take pictures of the Jewish bath under the Hotel Residence alla Giudecca in Siracusa. This picture of the information poster must do. Tobtaheornottobathe saw no reason to even ask for a bath there…

Just outside the hotel, however, you find the sea, so a bath can easily be done. The access made by the municipality was also made in the simplest way – using scaffolding material!

No beauty criterias or decoration, only function. But popular!

When there is a lot of wind, it is easy to hurt yourself if you do not use the stairs. We saved this bath until one day the wind was weak, and we had a very nice swim.

A bath outside the Jewish baths in Siracusa is just right.