Grótagjá of Thrones 

Dimmuborgir – what a fascinating place!

Mývatn in the north of Iceland is located in an active volcanic area. Here you can experience almost everything: New and old volcanoes, hot springs, sulphurous steams, boiling mud baths, narrow gorges and strange geological phenomena such as pseudocraters and Dimmuborgir. Spend some days here!

Dimmuborgir (the Dark Fortress). Hverfjall in the background to the left.

Dimmuborgir was formed by lava from the volcanic eruptions in Lúdentsborgir and Þrengsborgir some 2000 years ago. The place was originally a depression in the landscape, which was filled with lava. The lava solidified from the top, but not all the way to the bottom. Some lava found its way out again, and this led to the ‘roof’ of the lava caves collapsing, creating the impression of a ruined, black fortress. Here you find caves and peculiar rock formations everywhere.

Dimmuborgir was about to be buried by sand dunes, and a lot of resources have been spent on conservation. Now, as the vegetation has finally returned, there is much debate about whether to remove the birch or not – before it hides the whole thing.

Dimmuborgir has been the location of many fairy tales and myths. In pagan times, as a transition place between the world of elves and humans. With Christianity came the belief that this was Hell, the place where the Devil lived after being thrown out of Heaven. Of more recent myths, we have stories of the Santas (Iceland has 12 of them), that used to live here.

Hverfjall with Mývatn in the background. Hverfjall erupted some 2500 years ago.

One trip we enjoyed a lot was this one: First walk 2-3 of the paths through Dimmuborgir. From there you can follow a path that goes to the volcano Hverfjall. The volcano is not very high, but you can still feel the rise. There are 2 steps forward and one back since the mountain consists of gravel (tuff). Once up, it’s a splendid view! Go around the volcano and down on the other side. From there you can follow the signs to Grótagjá (the Cave Gil). Here you can clearly see how the continental plates are moving away from each other, as there are cracks and crevasses everywhere.

Storagjá (The Big Gill).

The gill Grótagjá is filled with water, and the cave was a highly valued bathing place before 1975. But during the volcanic eruptions between 1975 and 1984, the temperature in the water rose to over 50°C and bathing became impossible. Later, the temperature has dropped again and the place became a popular tourist attraction. However, vandalism led to the cave being closed, people were camping in the cave, washed their shoes and brushed their teeth in the water, etc. Now Grótagjá has had a new renaissance, after the place was the location for a Game of Thrones’ scene in the episode ‘Kissed by Fire‘ in the third season. Although the cave has been reopened, there are still prohibiting signs against bathing (because the temperature might change vey quickly, they claim). It’s not just right to swim in Grótagjá!

Grótagjá unfortunately was a ‘NOT‘ for us. The photographers would have lost their jobs, if they weren’t sort of permanently hired. We don’t have any good pictures from inside, but trust us: it’s very nice!

After a non-cave bath, some tough heavy metal music could have been just right, but Dimmuborgir is not what they used to be…

They look just sweet and nice, the Icelandic group Dimmuborgir. Not at all like the Norwegian symphonical heavy metal band Dimmu Borgir.

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